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The locals' guide to...Seville
Yes, Seville makes oranges, but it also boasts flamenco, jamón jamón and men waving swords at cattle. Enjoy... And for more information you can purchase a Lonely Planet Spain guide.
How do I get away from large tour groups wearing matching caps?
Visiting the city's main attractions such as the Giralda and the Torre del Oro will inevitably acquaint you more intimately with your fellow tourist than you'd ever wish. To escape the masses on their cheap Seville holidays head south, across the river, into the old gypsy quarter of Triana, the birthplace of flamenco and home to Seville's oldest and cheapest tapas bars. This is where you'll find duende, flamenco's soul, normally in the shape of a fiery brunette accompanied by a little old man with a guitar.
Where do the locals party?
After hours the good, the bad and the beautiful cram the streets around Alfalfa where a mix of trendy bars and charming old-school haunts cater for everyone's tastes. The atmosphere is laid-back and easy with the waiters likely to chalk your tab on the table rather than faff about with a printed bill. The bars around La Alameda attract more of a weird and wonderful crowd. If you're feeling adventurous on your Seville city break the Magia y Música combines cocktails with magic. If you're feeling like a sleepy Sunday tipple try Café de la Prensa in the Triana district.
Restaurants without an 'all-you-can-eat tourist buffet'?
El Arenal, the area behind the bull ring, is a culinary hot spot loved by the locals and you'll often see the torro's tail proudly billed on the menu after a big fight. The picturesque Santa Cruz next to the Giralda is good but busy and its tourist-friendly location elevates its prices to the loftier end of the market.
The locals' absolutely secret number one tip :
While Seville's beautiful cityscape is worth the trip alone it's the live flamenco that makes it what it is. Head to Triana and you'll find impromptu performances put on by charismatic locals at no extra charge than the price of a beer.
A quick guide to where the locals hang out
The breakfast: Tosta de tomate - freshly baked bread soaked in olive oil and topped with tomatoes - should only cost you a couple of euros from the rooftop café El Faro de Triana perched on the corner of Puente Isabel II.
The middle-of-the-night snack: Seville is all about the sugar and the churros stalls near Puente de Triana make a scrumptious late night treat if fried-dough pastries float your boat.
The flicks: The Diputación shows films in its open courtyard from May onwards. Brush up on your Spanish as subtitles are rare.
The shops : Calle Sierpes is a mercifully covered area protected from the relentless heat but shops around Plaza de El Salvador are also worth a look.
The trip: The picturesque mountain village of Ronda is built around a fierce gorge and spoils you with breathtaking views.
The view: Climb the Giralda tower for the best view of the city and look back over the moorish gardens and resplendent bull ring.
The museum: Often cast as the little sister to nearby Granada's Alhambra palace, the Alcazar is as impressive and eccentric a palace as you'll see this side of Tangiers.
The coffee: Nestled in the opulent gardens of the Alcazar, jam-packed with orange and jasmine trees, is a café where you can while away the hours.
The place for people watching: The Carboneria, a café-come-bar carved out of an ancient cave in Barrio Santa Cruz, hosts singers and musicians of all ages keen to get up and warble at the drop of a hat.
Why not try? Private monumental Seville walking tour
Details:
Magia y Música, Calle Virgen de las Montañas 18; Café de la Prensa, Calle Betis 8, +34 954 333420; El Faro de Triana, Puente Isabel II, +34 954 336192; Cine de Verano de la Diputación - outdoor cinema, Calle Menéndez y Pelayo 32, www.dipusevilla.es; Giralda tower, Calle Alemanes, s/n, +34 954 214471, catedraldesevilla.es; Alcazar, Patio de Banderas s/n, +34 954 502324, www.patronato-alcazarsevilla.es; La Carbonería, Calle Leviés 18, +34 954 214460; Zenit Sevilla Hotel, Calle Pagés del Corro 90;
Can I drink the water?
The eight essential questions you'll need answering
Which local animal is likely to hospitalise me?
The mosquito. It may not be marshland but the hot and humid conditions are a breeding ground for everyone's favourite carnivore.
Which native liquor will make me think I am attractive?
Tinto de verano: a mixture of cheap red wine, lemon soda and fresh fruit. Variations are sold throughout the city but if you want to be down with the kids you'll drink it on the street from a bucket.
How can I avoid a beating by the local hard nuts?
Don't heckle the matadors. They're considered kings of the city and are pretty handy with a spear.
Will I get lost?
Yes and so you should. The tiny back streets are bursting with beckoning bars and misplacing an hour or four of your Seville holiday is a genuine pleasure.
Will I find myself?
Ooh no. It's far too hot and sweaty for any deep thinking. Banish any sign of self-analysis with a large bucket of sangria.
Should I take an umbrella?
You wish - with August temperatures regularly pushing 50c the odd drop of moisture would be welcomed.
What should I order in a restaurant to impress the locals?
Jamón, jamón and maybe try some jamón. You'll be hard-pushed to find a bar without the obligatory pigs' legs hanging from the ceiling and to see it freshly carved is to witness true craftsmanship.
Can I drink the water?
Yes drink it in large quantities - this city is not called the frying pan of Europe for nothing.